This
land where Romans, Greeks, Moors, Basque, Old French &
Phoenicians each made their mark is one of Europe’s great
destinations. While some parts of Spain attract
millions of visitors yearly others are hidden treasures we
have found in our travels and look forward to sharing with
you.
Our “taste of Spain “ web pages
introduce the reader and client to many regions beginning
at the eastern France/Spain seaside border. You will
stroll through Catalonia, Valencia, the Mediterranean
coast before reaching Andalusia’s Alhambra. From
Andalusia’s major attractions we will review
Ronda before reaching the area
surrounding the Province of Cadiz.
Swinging north through Extramadua
we touch the border towns of Portugal before arriving in
Madrid. We then consider day trips around to the ancient
cities of Avila, Toledo and Segovia.
Next you’ll visit interior Old
Castile before reaching the Rioja wine regions of Navarre
and/or the Costal regions of Galicia and the Basque
Country. Your on-line visit ends as we began, at a
French/Spanish border crossing. However, this time it is the
Atlantic that forms the far western border of Spain.
Henri
spent a good part of his childhood along the Basque Coast,
on both sides of the Pyrenees, and as far west as the
Canary Islands. Together as adults we have explored all of
popular Spain. Off the beaten track we have reach the
caves of St. Ignatius and the border towns of Spain and
Portugal. The wineries of northern Spain and the Torres
estates south of Barcelona know us well, as do many chefs
and country inns throughout Spain.
So join us as we begin along the
border of mountains and seacoasts and come into:
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SPAIN -
The
Eastern and SE Coast
CATALONIA
Welome to a region of fiercely independent spirits devoted
to their own language and flag. Years of oppression and
persecution have not diminished the spirit of the Catalon
people who are enthusiastic and welcoming.
Call us to arrange early for the high months
- May-November 1st.
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From the
volcanic park of Garrortax in the Pyrenees to the tasting
rooms of our friends the Torres family wineries south of
Barcelona you will meet a warm and friendly people who
welcome you to their beloved land of sun and sea.
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BARCELONA
The back
streets and passages of Barcelona need to be explored in
addition to the architecture of Gaudi and his fellow
distinguished architects and designers. In this city that
awakes about 10 pm, the nightlife makes 2:00 am seem like
far too early to retire. Barcelona offers many apartments
that are a far better bargain than the hotels, especially
for families of 3 or more. Call us to arrange early for
the high months- May to November 1st.
We have
explored the many Tapas Bars, Restaurants, Museums and day
trips in and around Barcelona for our clients and will prepare an agenda that
meets your particular budget and dreams.
Barcelona attracts millions to this
enchanted city with is clean water and beaches. Many of
our clients take time to do day trips north to Cadaques
and several other villages within an hour or two of
Barcelona. Besides these Costa Brava villages a visit to
Girona and/or Olot allows easy access to France and the
hiking areas of ancient castles along the Pyrenees trails. For
the rock climber Siurana is world known destination with
spectacular scenery west of the city.
The drive
south toward Valencia allows time for wine tasting, rock
climbing, sun bathing and
village visits.
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VALENCIA
The
birthplace of Paella and resting location of the Holy
Grail welcomes few tour groups and is excellent for a
family holiday. Traveling with your children? If so,
do not miss the Oceanographic. This world recognized
aquarium displays thousands of different species of fish
and birds. The huge underwater aquariums are amazing with
great shows for people of all ages.
The
Valencia boating harbor features many world-renowned races
including Regatta’s, the America’s and Louis Vuitton Cup
and new facilities for boat rentals. Each spring the
Festival of ”Las Fallas” packs a years worth of festivals
into 7 days. Combine your city explorations with bike
rides through the pine and orange groves. Natural parks
attract bird migrations and photo opportunities abound.
Award winning golf
courses and beautiful sandy beaches add to a stay of a
week.
Ask us for dining
suggestions as we have four wonderful chefs who excel in
and around Valencia.
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ALICANTE PROVINCE
Continuing
south and southwest along the coast we exit the Valencia
region and enter Alicante Provence. Here one needs to be
warned that residents from England, Ireland and Scotland
have “taken over” much of the coast. In some areas the
only Spanish heard is that of service personnel.
However we have we found
a few great beaches and less touristy atmosphere in towns
like Moraira and La Villajoyosa with their chocolate shops
and fishing harbors
In
Moraira the fish auction is a Friday
highlight at the port. The area between Valencia and the
province of Andalusia boasts of ancient caves and sandy
beaches near Moraira. Here you may explore old fishing
towns with the Mediterranean Sea stretched out as far as
you can see. With a pleasant climate all year as the
mountains behind this coast affords protection from
winter’s cold breezes rushing out of the mountain passes.
The
Cova de les Cendres (the Cendres Cove) is an
Archaeological field from the Upper Paleolithic times
about 40 meters above sea level. Climb to the castle of
Moraira built in 1742 and once the home of the Bourbon’s
who are the family of the current King of Spain.
While all over Spain you
will find multiple festivities called ‘Moors and
Christians’ it is a real treat in Alicante. Usually
celebrated during the last week of July, there are parades
with impressive costumes and accompanying music. Normally
each features a real live re-enactment of the landing of
the Moorish Army on the beaches at dawn. All day the
battle continues until the night falls, and the Arab
leader and his army are thrown into the sea. If you want
to stay awake all night then ‘do as the Romans do’ and try
the famous drink called ‘nard’ made from coffee and
absinthe.
The various beaches,
above all the beach of Paraiso
are known for windsurfing. With the typical hot
Villajoyosa weather in summer, the city is perfect for a
relaxing holiday under the sun. If driving, coming by
train or flying your next stop will encompass Andalusia.
Henri and I try to come here as often as possible always
exploring off the major streets while updating traditional
sights and events.
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ANDALUSIA
This
is
a region of contrast. From the Mediterranean Coast
to the Atlantic, Andalusia covers most of the south of
Spain toward Gibraltar. The climate ranges from
sub-tropical near Motril to the often snow-capped Sierra
Nevada’s. The landscape ranges from dry areas to the
Atlantic bound Guadalquivir River that rushes into that ocean.
While the coast has been turned into the UK version of
Miami Beach/Orlando/Cancun, the interior retains the
Arab-Spanish flavor of old. Henri and I like to visit the
mountain village of Alhama de Granada. Here we sit by the
1st century BC Roman bridge before visiting the thermal
springs and baths. After a late lunch, a visit to
the Inquisition House brings us to the end of a lovely day
and plenty of time to drive the 58 km into Granada.
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GRANADA
Granada was the last
outpost of Moorish Rule in Spain and if you spend enough
time you will find the city incredible. Tourists too often
“do” the Alhambra and then leave, missing so much of
history found in the signature districts.
For our clients
interested in Jewish/Moorish and/or Christian history we
can design excursions that emphasis each of these cultures
in each region of Spain.
Your French Connexion LLC
travelers who take 4-6 days in Granada travel the streets
near the Grand Via de Colon and Avenida de los Reyes
Catolicos to enjoy local color and Renaissance art.
When at the
Alhambra
take your time.
Plan
on at least a day and a half or two days to visit and be
sure to include the Alcazaba and Nazarita Palace with its
great
Palace and
its great courtyards and gardens. Use a half-day to visit
the Alhambra museum and Provincial Art Museum and do enjoy
the Palace of Carlos V.
Districts in Granada - Stroll these neighborhoods that we
enjoy:
-
The Albaicin Quarter
–
Be prepared for narrow, steep streets with their
traditional villas and gardens. Here you may wish to
visit old mosques on top of which churches have been
erected.
View the little squares
such as San Nicolás and San Cristóbal where you can
view the Alhambra and the peaks of the
Sierra Nevada.
-
Corral del Carbón,
an old Arab corn exchange and the
Plaza de Bib, famous for its flower market
and Alcaicería (silk exchange). Here you may view
regional crafts located near the Palacio de la Madraza,
an excellent example of Muslim architecture.
-
Granada
Cathedral.
Although it originally had a Gothic layout, it was
finished following the Renaissance style. Note the
Royal Chapel, where the Catholic Monarchs are buried. In
this area we recommend the archaeological museum.
(Note: the Cathedral is best seen from the back and
sides as in front the buildings hem
in a fine view)
-
Science Park
may be the attraction best suited to the tastes of
people of all ages - especially those with children. It is an interactive museum with
more than 200 exhibits about the biosphere, the senses,
perception and inventions, as well as the planetarium.
If staying for more than
two day use the
Bono Turístico (Tourist Pass). It is a
multi-pass that includes a visit to the Alhambra, the
Generalife, the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, the
Carthusian Monastery, the Monastery of San Jerónimo and
the Science Park. North American travelers receive a 25%
discount from the admission price. The pass includes
ten trips
on the city's buses and microbuses.
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CORDOBA
West
of Granada and an easy day trip from Seville, Henri and I
have spent a week in country inns and hotels in the region
during three recent visits.
Moorish, Christian,
Mudjar, and
Jewish sites and tradition are well preserved in Cordoba
due in part to neglect. Once the capital of both Moorish
and Castilian rule the city was re-conquered from the
Moors in the 12th century but the king (Frenando
III) did not destroy the Muslim art with the exception of
changing mosques into Catholic parishes.
The Ummawiyy rulers castle, Alcázar, is a
wonder of Arab structure and wealth. Later was used as
the headquarters of the catholic kings during the
Reconquesta.
The Casa de Sefarad, the Jewish interpretive
museum, focuses on the daily life in what was Spain’s
large Jewish community. The Casa is the cultural center
for Sephardic Jewish history in Spain. Your French
Connexion LLC has prepared for our clients many routes to
trace Jewish, Christian, Arab and Basque families -
requests for individualized travel that trace families to
pre and post 1492 Spain.
|
Across the street
enter one of only three Jewish Synagogues to survive
the Christian takeover of Spain. Next to the
synagogue at the corner of Calle de los Judíos and
Calle Averroes, tel. 957-421-404,
www.casadesefarad.com).
The Casa de Sefarad hosts
weekly
concerts (acoustic,
Sephardic, and Andalusian most Fridays).
Reservations recommended. Drop by and ask
when. |
The first Muslim rulers
were very tolerant and two great thinkers were born in
Cordoba in the 12th Century.
The Jewish Doctor
Maimonides
and the Muslim author Averroes - both were
victims when rulers changed in 1147.
rose on Jewish scripture and Aristotle's
philosophy, he saw no conflict between the two. His
Guide of the Perplexed
asserted that secular knowledge and religious faith
could go hand-in-hand. Under the new rulers
Maimonides
was driven out and fled to Cario where he became the
sultan's doctor.
Averroes, a
Muslim attorney
(1126–1198)
is a mirror image of
Maimonides’, the
medieval world's number-one authority on Aristotle
Averroes authored
The Incoherence of the
Incoherence - in which he
attacked narrow-mindedness. His philosophy
indicated two routes toward truth, secular philosophy
for the educated and religion for the masses. With his
banishment, four centuries of tolerance was erased and
replace by fear. (Sound familiar?)
Cordoba's calendar of
events includes an attractive array of art, music,
theatre, and cinema
festivals
for all ages. Film lovers will not want to miss the
Cabra Audiovisual Festival, devoted to short
films. Other attractive festivals include the
Southern Theatre Festival,
celebrated every year in Palma del Río, and
Sensxperiment,
where the latest trends in multimedia and experimental art
meet. Check out our
Events pages for
more events in Spain.
The theme park
Ciudad Al Mansu, recreates the
ancient splendor of the Cordovan Caliphate. Here children
will find an accurate
reproduction
of a medieval
Hispanic-Muslim city,
with its gardens, mosques, palaces, and typical Arab souks.
Between Cordoba and
Seville we have several Inns, Monastery Hotels and Bed and
Breakfasts for clients who desire to combine visits to
both cities.
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SEVILLE
The
historical center of Seville houses both ancient Moorish
and Jewish neighborhoods each with beautiful buildings,
flowered courtyards, and major monuments. Give yourself at
least 4 days to truly sample the indelible influences of
six centuries of Roman rule, ended by the Visigoths and
transformed by Moorish rule for another 8 centuries.
In 1492 the Catholic
monarchs gained the city again but the departure of over
400,000 Moors made the city far less influential until the
wealth of the New World awoke the city for over 200 years.
For the next two centuries Seville was a major trading
influence in Europe but declined in the 18th
century as Spain lost her colonies to the UK and France.
However her sea link via the navigable Guadalquivir and
her spring festivals combined to re-opened trade and
tourism over the past half century. Festivals and feasts
bring a million visitors a year to Seville, many from
Europe, Spain and South America.
Here are some of our
favorite events and sights in this capitol of the dance
and bull fighting.
Holy week, Semana Santa,
is a week without sleep. Balconies are hung with palm
branches. Processions, with statues of saints march with
“pilgrims”
dressed as matadors, Roman Centurions, fancy ladies in
ball gowns and Nazarenos in their hooded robes. Seeing
people cheering for dressed up statues (one per parish) is
not a familiar sight to non Spanish Catholics. Nights are
dedicated to Flamingo and drinking punctuated by day and
night firecrackers.
Two
weeks later comes Feria de Abril
the outgrowth of early cattle market festivals this is a
great festival but one seen best without a car in the
city! This week marks the most important bullfights of the
year. Between the two major celebrations you will enjoy
smaller ferias in the surrounding villages and towns
dancing until you pause to sleep surrounded by your family
and friends.
Major Sights not be be missed
include the largest
Gothic building in Europe The
Cathedral; and its landmark minaret
tower, the Giralda. In
this massive building is the tomb of Columbus.
The
Alcazares Reales is the king’s
Moorish style palace, the Alcazar. For those who cannot
climb steps this is the tower for you - it is a ramp to
the top, not steps!
The royal apartments and
harem are tiled with mosaic designs in all colors. The
Court of the Maidens is luxurious and every 5 years the
sultan was presented with 100 new concubines. The 9 feet
thick walls are protection against the sun and trees were
planted to keep most of the buildings in the shade.
And here are the
districts that will bring history to life in Seville:
-
The
Santa Cruz district
is the oldest in Seville, standing behind the Alcázares
Reales. It is made up of narrow, quiet streets, lovely
houses with leafy patios and wrought-iron balconies, and
tiny squares brimming with palms and flowers.
-
The María Luisa Park
is the largest in Seville. In the center is a large
crescent-shaped building constructed for the
Spanish-American exhibition of 1929. The building is
coated with multi-colored tile and bordered by a moat.
Doves always cluster in the park, and will eat seeds out
of your hand.
-
The old Tobacco
Manufactory
near the Maria Luiza Park. It was here that Bizet's
Carmen once worked. It is now the administrative
building of the University of Seville.
-
The Calle Sierpes
is the most picturesque shopping street in Seville. It
is for pedestrians only. Large awnings are stretched
high above the street (attached to the buildings on
either side) to keep out the sun.
-
The Torre de Oro,
a Moorish tower faces the bullring (Plaza Tores) and do
take time to cross the river and stroll in the typical
and traditional Barrio de Triana.
-
For the Kids-
Isla de la Cartuja with
its concerts, parks, and wide pavilions as well as the
original burial place of Christopher Columbus.
In a city with hundreds
of churches and palaces we are often asked which we like
the best if we had only one to choose. Our suggestion,
the Palacio de las Duenas,
the palace of the Dukes of Alba.
LOCAL
FOOD AND CUSTOMS –
Sevillian food
is meant to be shared among friends. Dining centers around
home dining as well as in the Tapas bars where friends
share many small dishes. The ham of Huelva Sierres, along
with many cod dishes, fresh fish and prawns are paired
with beer and local wines for a Tapas lunch or supper.
Salads, Gazpacho, Salmorejo and chopped pork are typical
summer dishes. Below find some nice areas to walk and also
in which to eat:
-
TheSanta Cruz
district is one we like a lot due to the large number of
establishments that serve great tapas.
-
The Alfalfa district
has a series of open-air bars, very lively during the
summer.
-
In Triana and Betis
a large number of bars and terraces overlook the river.
-
Arenal
contains some
traditional establishments where the visitors can enjoy
fresh fish.
The nearby town of
Castilleja
is famous for a wide range of desserts such as crumbles,
tortes, sponge cake and homemade sweets such as Sweet
Bread Fritters, Pestiños and Gañotes.
